Trail 1Trail 2Trail 3. Amélie-les-BainsTrail 4Trail 5
  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17. Palalda


    On approaching Amélie-les-Bains, you will the old mediaeval; hilltop village of Palalda with its signalling tower on your right. At the first roundabout, turn left (direction Palalda) and immediately first right to cross the old railway bridge. At the end of the bridge turn left and follow the road round a right angle bend and make a u-turn at the first left Avenue du Vieux Pont.




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  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17. Palalda





    Follow the river, and on the right, just after the bend, is a reproduction of Mackintosh's painting "Palalda".

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17. Palalda

    Private Collection on loan to
    Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

    The upper part of the painting seems to have been painted from here but the lower part was probably done from across the river.

    Unsatisfied with the result, Mackintosh redid the bottom by cutting a piece of paper to the shape of the walls he wanted to retain and sticking it over the part he did not like.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17. Palalda

    Return with the river now on your left to the sharp U bend and turn right, back towards the old railway bridge but carry straight on up the hill. At the top there is a parking place on the right with a sign to Musée de la Poste.

    Walk down the steep lane and though the stone arch on the left to Interpretation Centre No 1 (see Centres) which is on the right of the chapel. It tells the story of the Mackintoshes' earlier life before coming to France and of their first winter here, where Margaret took a treatment for her asthma at the spa.

    The chapel contains a reredos decorated with the first Spanish gold from the Americas which Mackintosh found very beautiful.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains








    Return to Amélie and cross an iron bridge on your left. The Mackintoshes had their studio here – an old toll house now demolished - just visible on the left in the picture.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17a. Mymosa


    On the other side walk up Ave de Dr Bouix (named after Mackintosh's studio landlord). At the top corner is the Hotel Central. This is where the Mackintoshes spent the winter of 1923/24.

    "The hotel is simple but beautifully clean and the cooking is amazing. It is very cheap and that suits us... The people are quite a Spanish type and wear dead black and speak Catalan."

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17a. Mymosa



    From here Margaret walked up to the Roman Baths - whose walls really do date from Roman times - for treatment for her asthma. The streets were lined with spittoons for the large number of TB sufferers who came here.

    Hot sulphur water flowed down the streets and Margaret collected it for washing her hair.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    17a. Mymosa

    Hunterian Art Gallery,
    University of Glasgow

    On the hotel wall is a reproduction of Mackintosh's earliest french painting "Mymosa". Mackintosh always had an interest in flowers. His style is classically botanical and quite different to his landscapes.

    In a lecture he once said: "Art is the flower – life is the green leaf. Flowers grow from but above the green leaf…the flower of the art that is in you..."

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    18. Mont-Alba



    Now drive out of town towards Arles sur Tech (with its magnificent Gothic cloisters).

    As you leave Amélie there is a roundabout and bit further on a bus stop on the right with a reproduction of "Montalba". The road to Montalba is opposite.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    18. Mont-Alba



    This is a long and rather twisty route but worth it for the picturesque and dramatic vistas to be seen from the road. The farm in the picture is actually called Ruis Bains – nowadays abandoned, overgrown and in ruins. It is just before the bridge where the road crosses the river.

  • Trail 3. Amélie-les-Bains

    18. Mont-Alba

    Scottish National Gallery
    of Modern Art

    With the approach of summer in 1924, the Mackintoshes moved down to Collioure.

    To continue to Trail 4 return to the Interpretation Centre and continue on the small mountain road which takes you past Prunet et Belpuig, one of the small mountain churches which Mackintosh so admired, and the priory of Serrabonne. Pass through Bouleternère to join the N116 and turn right to Ille-sur-Têt.


    Continue to Trail 4